The unremarkable yet profound difference between Beijing and Shanghai
I met two old friends and new colleagues for dinner last night in a little place off of Huaihai Lu, the sort of place that they only have in Shanghai, with a deco stained-glass door and superfluous wooden moldings, stuff that’s plausibly old and thus able to obscure the fact that it’s probably new. Dainty menu, but not the sort that holds itself in much regard. This was not, mind you, one of those simulacral French places, though Shanghai does the francolacrum almost as well as McNally-era New York. (I went to one of those for breakfast this morning, a self-proclaimed “maison de qualité”; Handel Lee was at the next table, little French kids were running around unharnessed, and the only outlet was on the ceiling, the better not to disturb the affected buffed wood paneling.)
But back to our little dinner of dry-fried pomfret and tomato soup. They were closing a supplement, so we didn’t sit down until twenty past ten, just as the usual Friday-night crowd began to settle their tabs. We were into duck pancakes when a loud group of five or six middle-aged Chinese intellectuals stumbled through the spring-hinged door and sat itself at the next table. My phone was trying to access a Halloween picture of my improvised Karl Lagerfeld next to a stunning network news reporter in a chador. My editor friends were waiting politely as the little download wheel spun. We moved to Riesling. Their German architectural photographer buddy was on her way over, with the new husband, an industrial-shipping broker. They arrived and the conversation moved to shipbuilding overcapacity, piracy and its effect on fee schedules, a lark to restage their wedding in the German Pavilion come May, and one friend who’s trying to make an art career from the fashion world.
And then, out of nowhere, the six intellectuals start talking about art. They’re drunk and rowdy and impassioned, and I don’t think they’d ordered anything. There’s a woman, and she’s insisting on her creative prerogative in the abstract. There’s a man, telling her she’s too Westernized. They’re batting ideas around, toggling between Shanghainese and Mandarin. Someone throws out the name Zhou Tiehai, calls him a fraud. The woman with the artistic aspirations, thinking we don’t understand or just not caring if we do, starts with the old rhetorical device of ask-the-people-at-the-next-table, who though we are two Chinese faces and a Western one, are enough to represent for her some sort of taste hierarchy that will confirm to the man that she is not exactly like us. The substance of the argument is of course not important here, but the modality, the timbre, the way they sit on some chairs and use others to rest elbows, the way their bodies consume the limited space of a narrow joint on a narrow street with strangers in proximity who can be invoked but never addressed.
And that’s when it occurred to me: Yang Fudong not as fantasia but as mimesis.








